Required: Assembly
As it turns out, there is a little bit of Paris happening in New York for Fall. According to Assembly, their Autumn/Winter 12 collection begins in 1930s Paris and “journeys through time.” I only have eyes for this line. Assembly is everything Rag & Bone wishes it could be, and always falls short; it achieves “urban” without too much aesthetic pretense. This collection, for me, redefines “wearable” which all too often is a word synonymous with boring, like the clothes are two or three stitches from JcPennys. For Assembly though, there is a beautiful line of clothes that is pared down without being dumbed down.
Here is what I love about Assembly: volume, color, and attitude. I wish I was as chill as these clothes, but I’m kind of high key. There’s an ease about this line; these clothes look like they feel good—clothes you can live in, and well. The models, on the other hand, look kind of weary and hung over but whatever—maybe that just adds to the Paris meets New York Saturday afternoon feel of the collection.
I’m feeling the bulky sweater/scarf in this look; I would describe it as “substantive.” I also need to stop overdosing on skinny denim, and these wool pants are a suitable substitute without being suit-y. They say tailored without smacking you in the face with “SLACKS.”
I love this color. This color is everything. When I was watching Oscars coverage, Kelly Osbourne said she wished Ellie Kemper would have called her dress “copper” not “rust.” More fashionable, I guess. Well, this dyed-denim jacket is rust. Beautiful, hearty, rugged rust. It’s maxi-length feels modern against the abruptly short and somehow sexy turtleneck dress.
This look reads, “I just rolled out of bed and ran to the bodega.” And then I would eat my Doritos and stay in this outfit all day. The leather hat is kind of kitschy, but would be less so if it actually fit on the model’s head. I always love leather things that are usually cotton.
Is that a sweater or scarf? Is that pants or a skirt? Are those peplums or pockets? Don’t know, don’t care, will wear.
At first, I said “meh” to this ensemble, but upon closer examination I think all of the pieces could be integral to any closet. That jacket has an unusual cut were it actually a jacket—but it’s more stunning as a sweater. Note the raw edges of the button up shirt, which has grown on me over the course of writing this. I really do like these bottoms though, whose wideness is in such pleasing proportion to their cropped-ness. Sure, they look a little like wool basketball shorts—but also very much like an updated and neutral staple piece.
The vintage and worn looking boots anchored all these looks; a really grounding force. I appreciated the choice of footwear so much because there was no sort of—easy out for the androgyny of the collection; no strappy sandal or skinny heel to water things down. The whole collection felt solid, from the long square jackets to the leather caps. Solid and wearable and a little Paris but still New York.

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