A Zig And A Miss
In Boston, I’ve already experienced the first “I should have layered” shiver. Stores are stocking longer sleeves. Two in particular are having major moments: Target is launching their Missoni collection on September 13th (although it’s been leaked forever) and Karl Lagerfeld for Macy’s Impulse is already on the racks. My feelings are mixed, spanning from “gag” to “iiight.”
On the whole, I’m super excited about high end label collaborations with stores I can afford. I feel like I am the target audience (pun intended): broke but aware. Likes nice things but lacks the funds. Maybe they’re really aiming for a slightly less critical bitch than me…but ultimately, I find joy in a chance to participate in luxury brands with legacies.
Back in 2009, I was stupidly late to shop Alexander McQueen (the king of my heart, may he rest in peace) for Target, and the bought absolutely the only thing left in my size. As a matter of fact, I hated the dress at first but felt I had to seize the only opportunity in the foreseeable future to have McQueen in my closet. And also I had a wedding to go to that night. But more to the point: what is so different about seeking out a label than coveting a signed numbered edition? Because I mostly get to wear reproductions having a piece of McQueen, however distilled, was meaningful to me. Once I put it on, the shape and silhouette were beautiful and I felt glorious.
While I believe that fashion should BE accessible, I don’t really want to LOOK accessible. Missoni for Target is a major let down. I should say that Missoni is not my favorite label anyway, and so I don’t have the “I’ll just get it because it’s Missoni” instinct. The thought of donning the Target line, though, makes my skin crawl. I think the palette feels dated—not 70s vintage or classic. That garish raspberry is particularly wack. And the brown is so…primary.
Something about the zigzags feels elementary. If I WAS going to wear it, the only way would be all at once: zig on zag on zig. I would know for certain, though, “I am wearing an approximation of glamour.” Missoni rounded way, way down. It’s a huge departure from candy colors and more complicated prints of their A/W 11 RTW collection, which I liked much better. On the runway, there were wider and more elegonated shapes. The collection for Target falls pretty squarely at the waist and above the knee.
And that’s the crux of it. Missoni has to protect the singularity of its RTW look. And if I want better tailoring I have to pay for it. I think it IS possible though, to give the people some cotton luxe. To pare down without dumbing all the way down—to lower the volume without muting all sense of style? If the brand was going for fun, fresh, and affordable I would only score them a 1 out of 3.
Lagerfeld for Macy’s Impulse hit a few marks for me. Some “oohs” but no “AHHHHHHHHs.” Overall the line was sleeker; youthful without being too young. Faux leather is an approximation of luxury I don’t mind. There were fewer pieces, but a wider range of possibilities. I thought Lagerfeld’s line showed a greater respect for the customer while fitting in the Macy’s context. Here is my favorite number from the line:
The tees with line drawings of Lagerfeld epitomized the trickledown effect from label to layperson. Wearing that shirt you won’t look LIKE you are wearing Lagerfeld; you will literally BE wearing Lagerfeld himself. The black dress with the very structured collar and the sheer menswear button up were slightly more subtle translations of fall trends.